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Rug Hooking Wool 101

5/15/2014

28 Comments

 
Dear Christine,

T
his may be is a blog question. I need help. I want to learn more about wool. I have never sewn or had experience with fabrics before rug hooking. I had difficulty when asking my question of an instructor(s) in a recent rug hooking class - strange answer: such as "the wool has been sitting on a shelf for a long time - or is antique"??? The question has to do with the thicknesses of different wools I have or might buy or hook with. Some are quite flat, others very fluffy, but all deemed/sold as for use to hook in rugs. They say "felt" or for applique, etc. I do realize one can hook with anything if going about it for different purposes for textiles/tapestries!

So although I have this MS degree in Education, I do not easily come by these answers out of my bailiwick; so I'm a new learner here. I thought there were no "dumb questions". Five months after I took up rug hooking, I was traveling and was so excited to be in a Florence, Italy, fabric store, buying wool off bolts. These yards fit neatly into my suitcase. I returned home only to realize it was way too thin for my hooking - rolled off like silk from my cutter. That was my first bad experience with not knowing about the right kind of wool for this craft. 

Now I know enough to buy from places that have it just for rug hooking. Still, I'd just like to know about the range of wools that are used and why some plaids, for instance seem to have a "high pile" is it called? While others are more compact - flat. I have loads of wooly pieces laying around here - from you, others, some passed down from my cousin who died of cancer, and others - I am sorting and wondering and wanting to learn more about wool. I am making a little rug/wool gallery for myself downstairs. Is there a book? The last time I asked about this, two ladies that taught that color planning class I was taking acted really 'defensive', and asked if I wanted to know who their suppliers were? I just think some people have experience and agendas in their past, and they just can't read me as a nice person who Just Wants to Know.  So I thought of you and your blog - and how you vent sometimes - I'm venting - and that's the Thick and the Thin of it. :)

Oh Well! I bought some "sparkly" wool from her I really loved - she over dyed it - I loved it - the first time I saw it, a lady had it in turquoise - she does some paisley things. This lady wouldn't tell me where one could get sparkly wool like that, or even get it over dyed - she doesn't sell things on line - do you sell that sparkly over dyed wool? I could send a picture. It doesn't take much - it just adds a touch. Maybe I'll look at you site and find it. You are so perfect. It's been a long time since I've written a lot to you. You are successful and I want you to stay that way and grow and grow and be happy. End of MY blog, I guess!
   Anne Marie

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Hi Anne Marie,

Your questions are very familiar so I thought I would reply to you by way of a blog to share what I’ve learned over the years.  

Wool is not the holy grail and should not be shrouded in secrecy.  My philosophy is that knowledge should be shared so we can all make the best choice when purchasing fabric.  Our money should not be wasted on wools that are too thin, too unstable or not conducive to this craft.  A bit of education will ensure better choices will be made because frustration should never come in to play when rug hooking!    

I’m a wool snob.  I only use the best and sell the best in the store.  I don’t like wool that falls apart in my hands or is too thin and stringy to keep a neat surface on my rugs.  That does not mean I don’t appreciate a good recycled wool because there are fine specimens to be had at second hand shops.  But buyer beware because wool is not all created equal.   Even when I buy new wools and don't care for its cut ability, or it doesn't fit my ideal of quality, I put it in a bin box and reduce it. 

What most hookers desire is a 13 oz weight in their wool fabric. This means that the wool weighs 13 oz per yard.  This is basically those itchy, plaid wool skirts we wore as kids and all of the Dorr Mill woollens that most shops carry.  I advise newbies to carry a sample of a good 13 oz weight when perusing the flea markets and recycled clothing stores.  Feel the wool you hope to buy and then rub your sample for a comparison.  Sometimes the wool in the bin hasn’t been washed in hot water so take that into consideration as it will be a thicker after processing in your machines. Even if the wool is unwashed it should still have the property of a winter garment, a bit of fuzz and thickness to the weave.   

I like to define wool by breaking it into two categories; Winter and Summer. That does not mean winter coat weight that weighs about 16 plus ounces, as that tends to be too thick.  If you want to use a coat then I would stick to all the same weight for your rug as mixing a 13 oz and a 16 oz plus would make your project look lumpy.  Coat weight is also more difficult to pull through the backing so it is usually cut into a finer strip to reduce the stress of the harder tug when using the wider strip.   

Summer weight, is the polar opposite and not good for rug hooking.  If you spy a suit or skirt in a bargain bin or hanging on a rack, ask yourself this question.  Would someone wear this garment in the summer or the winter?  If you think it’s a summer piece, walk away.  Summer suiting, although 100% wool is only 7 oz and won’t felt no matter how much you beat it up.  It’s shiny and stringy and although it might be the perfect colour, pass it by and save your money for the good stuff!   It is also almost too thin to put through a cutting machine and slips around like a sleazy womanizer. When cutting a thin wool, you have to feed it through the machine as straight as possible or it's spaghetti city. I personally don’t like my wool too thin,  but have no problem using Pendleton shirts and skirts that tend to run around 10-11 oz.   

Not all wools are woven or created equal.  There are all kinds of weave patterns when making fabric.  The best of course is the straight weave or plain weave.  Plain weave produces the strongest fabric with minimal fraying.  These would mostly be natural or solid coloured wools. The weight of the wool and fuzziness is determined by the threads used when weaving the fabric. Think of the different ply’s of yarn.  The denser the fibers used the thicker the wool that is woven. 

Some wools are woven more loosely and they won't felt enough after being washed so it needs to be cut with the wider blades, #6 to #8.  Some herringbone wools are loosely woven and demand a wider cut but there are others, especially the one we buy and over-dye that can be cut very carefully in a #4.  Someone told me they cut it in a #3 once for an oriental but that had to be deep concentration and a steady hand to feed it perfectly straight through the machine.  Any deviation off grain would cut the fibers on the bias and therefore would degrade the integrity of the wools warp.


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That is not to say that any one wool is bad.  Lots of rug hookers have preferences that we may not agree with or care to use.  A thinner, suit wool could be hooked beautifully if you tear the strips wide, about an inch and fold under the fraying edges and hook the flat top.  Some hook with fine wools and just keep their scissors handy for trimming.  Fine wools are okay but you can’t cut them in the narrow cuts as they just fall apart. 

Back in the day when I started rug hooking I brought home a lot of wools that were later discarded.  It’s a learning curve as in all things.  Just because a coveted coloured wool has wooed you into buying it doesn’t mean it will work.  Suppress the urge by breathing deeply to allow the brain to overrule the addiction. If you succumb, and we all do at times, it can always be used as a pillow back. 

Plaids of course are fabulous, bringing texture and depth to the table.  I put them in every rug, especially herringbone….I have a big love for herringbone! Of course it's woven in a special pattern and that's the reason behind the fraying.  Plaids have multiple colours going this way and that making it a bit more iffy but not enough to turn your nose up on a piece of great plaid.  Just snip off the fraying ends.  Sometimes a thin plaid like a Pendleton shirt, can be felted a bit more by throwing a pair of jeans in the washer with the wool.  That will beat it up more.  Front loader machines of course are more gentle and don’t felt as well so sidle up to a friend with a top loader and beat it to the maximum thickness.

I’m a stickler about 100% content in my wool.  Nothing in my shop has a man-made fiber.  I started this to protect my cutter blades because polyesters and acrylics will dull your carbon steel blades on machines that have a pressing action such as the Bliss, Fraser 500 and Rigby designs. Cutters that offer a scissors action fare much better. These days, I’m just a wool snob, I like the soft feel, the way it cuts, the way it dyes and how it hooks.

Cutting wool properly is the secret to a happy hooker.  Taking the time to put the fabric through the machine ensures the best hooking experience.  I never put through a piece more than three inches wide.  If the wool is  larger and cumbersome it slides off the edge creating drag to the side of the machine so you are continually trying to keep it in place creating undesired movement and off grain cutting.

It is always best to cut your strips parallel to the selvage edge which is easily apparent when you buy new wool off the bolt, but when you buy a garment at a shop, unless you have a tailor background you wouldn’t know how the pattern pieces were cut off the bolt. Really good plain weaves work either way but a herringbone needs to be cut following the visible lines you see between the V’s in the pattern.  Over time, as experience gathers under your belt, you and your wool will become one. 

Here is the explanation of a few wool terms. 

Selvage – When purchasing wool on the bolt or roll, the selvage is the finished edge of the fabric. It runs parallel to the grain or ‘Warp'.

Warp – The lengthwise grain that runs along the entire length of the fabric.  It is the strongest grain with the least amount of movement.

Weft – This is the grain that runs the width of the fabric and has a bit of moment or stretch to it. 

Bias – The bias is at a 45* degree angle on the fabric.  This grain has the most stretch. 

About the sparkly wool.  We do sell a wool with a sparkle through it.  The base is natural and the darker you dye this fabric the more the glitter shows. So far we’ve over-dyed it for our Sea Shore bundles for sand and shells.  It’s lovely. 

Whenever you ask a question and are not satisfied with the reply or feel you are being put off for reasons unknown, keep asking around until you get the answer you deserve.  Rug hooking is not rocket science nor are we working against one another to conquer the world.  Rug hooking is a glorious craft that should be filled with a lifetime of exploration and learning.  You will find many talented folks willing to share their knowledge. That being said, I hope I’ve answered your questions and shed some light on the thick and thin of wool. 


28 Comments
Marye
5/15/2014 04:21:44 am

Thanks so much for answering questions I too have wondered about for years.

Reply
Michelle
5/15/2014 04:22:03 am

Wonderful blog today!

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Marilyn O'Hearn
2/9/2019 04:01:06 pm

I just love hooking rugs.I just finished my first. I came across an acrylic felt blanket. I thought I'd use it to make a purse adding other acrylic with it.What do you think.?

Reply
Patricia Gates
5/15/2014 05:14:20 am

Wonderful information in this blog. Wish I had known this when I first started building my stash. Yes, your wool is the best. :)

Reply
Starr
5/15/2014 05:17:38 am

Fabulous information! Thanks

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Yvonne link
5/15/2014 05:58:50 am

What an AWESOME blog piece!! GREAT information!!

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Debbie
5/15/2014 08:39:08 am

42 years hooking! - and this is the most comprehensive explanation for wool I have ever seen. May I have your permission to print this out and share with new hookers?

Reply
Christine
5/15/2014 08:45:09 am

Sure print it off and share!

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Sue Cunningham
5/15/2014 09:00:44 am

Thanks for this, Christine......your best blog yet!

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Karen
5/15/2014 10:57:39 am

What a wonderful lesson in wool. Thankyou!!

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carol butcher
5/16/2014 12:38:58 am

Great info...thank you...you stated plain weave as best and as a weaver (in my previous life) I agree. One question, plains can be woven plain weave. What I avoid is twill plains...they are woven in a 3/1 and because of this are "weaker" than plain...or tabby (2/2). You have made the mystery of wool so much easier...the 13oz info I had never heard....thank you...thank you!

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Carol Butcher
5/17/2014 02:37:13 am

auto- correct, I hate it, I meant plaid( not plain ) can be woven tabby or plain weave.

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Linda Ehly link
5/16/2014 10:05:21 pm

Thank you for sharing a most 'excellent' wool description. I'm new to rug hooking, your information is wonderful!!

Reply
Anne Marie Lewis
5/17/2014 12:03:53 pm

I am, as ever, your happy everything: customer, friend, learner, overwhelmed - printing this out - what a treasure - thank you SO much. Love, Anne Marie.

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Darlene
5/19/2014 03:40:45 am

Thanks so much this is very good information. I just through two garbage bags full of woll. It was simmer wool. This was very good information thanks again

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Janine link
6/20/2016 04:28:42 pm

This was great info! Thank you! So far, I've just been learning by trial and error, so this will really help.

Reply
Jeanette
9/24/2016 08:40:26 am

Great information. Most rug hookers and rug hooking shop owners I have met are very friendly and willing to share their knowledge. The ones that aren't don't get my business.

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Susan link
3/14/2017 11:32:47 am

Very informative

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Karen
3/28/2017 04:38:52 pm

Hello Christine,
Well, I am so glad I read all the way down to the bottom of the page - only to discover....your store is right here in NOVA SCOTIA!!!!!
I am new to rug hooking.....brand new. I purchased a hook and attended a 30 minute Lunch 'n Learn with a wonderful hooker from Bridgetown. That was five years ago. I've kept a space reserved on my wall ever since for my yet unattempted first design. I've been stewing over it ever since.
I am now ready to get started. I think. I have selected this picture and that, from off of the internet, with the intention of tweeking and combining the images for my imagined design. I also live 5 minutes fromo the Wilmot Frenchy's and have been collecting wool sweaters for the past five years ~ mostly cashmere or merino wool. But I cannot find ANYWHERE on the internet HOW to use said material in a hooked rug. Although a cute video from "Shades of Heather" shows her cutting up a "jumper" which does not even appear to be felted.
So my question is this: what do I do with all of these sweaters to turn them into a hooked rug?
a) Is it even possible to use sweater material for rug hooking?
b) Do they need to be felted?
c) Can you cut them into (vertical) strips?
d) If so, why don't they unravel when you cut them?

I had heard that there is a museum in Mahone Bay with rug hooking in it; so I am planning a road trip there in the next month or so. Now that I know of your store, I will definitely be stopping in to meet you and see what wonderful woolen treasures you have.
I hope you are able to answer these questions for me. Sorry for including it in the comments; but I didn't see how else to submit a question.
Much gratitude and many thanks!
Sincerely, Karen

Reply
Eurda Hoorweg-Lodge
10/29/2018 02:56:17 pm

Looking for the instructions (apparently published a few years back)for designing one's own plaid????

Might you be aware of this??

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Marilyn
2/9/2019 04:05:16 pm

Do you sell white wool so we can dye it? Or where is the best mill to buy it?

Reply
Maureen McCormack
10/6/2019 10:52:20 am

I loved this post and found it most helpful. I am a new hooker who started without the benefit of a beginner class. As I continue to hook I am constantly reminded of how I missed a lot of essential info by never having a beginner class. When I inquired from some about what is taught in beginner class it seems learning about wool is still overlooked. What a needed article this is! Thank you. One question: is it always necessary to wash wool off the bolt before using it?

Reply
Christine
10/8/2019 11:22:59 am

Hi Maureen,
Yes, you need to wash the wool off the bolt to felt it (shrink it) so the weave is tighter and won't fray as much as it would unwashed. It also fluffs the wool so the loops fill in the space better. Cheers!

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Sunny Rowland
11/8/2019 10:11:35 pm

Thank you for this information. I just started my first rug and went shopping at the fabric store for wool. I left empty handed as had no clue what to buy.

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Maurren
3/6/2021 10:38:36 pm

Hello, I just started my first rug. I went and bought a variety of pieces of all wool clothing to experiment with. I spent the evening putting the wool into strip after washing it. I am glad to have read this bc I now know some of my cuts were done wrong. My question is, does anyone else find that cutting the wool causes their noses to be bothered? I actually got a slight bloody nose after cutting and hooking for a couple of hours. If so, what can be done to prevent this, if anything?

Reply
Christine
3/8/2021 10:45:58 am

Hi Maurren,

I know some people are allergic to wool and sneeze but I've never heard of their noses bleeding. Perhaps the wool did irritate you and if your house is dry it caused your nose to bleed? Perhaps if you wish to continue hooking you wear a mast when cutting as that is when the most fibers are airborne. Hope this helps!

Reply
Maureen
3/15/2021 09:34:14 am

Hello, Thanks for the advice. Since that night when I had that reaction,I have been cutting the wool in a different room on a table and I wash every thing up after cutting. And I am also cutting in smaller quantities. I saw someone say they only cut about as much as they can use in a half an hour. That has helped. The night I got the nosebleed, I was cutting the wool and hooking it all in my lap. And my house is very dry. We burn wood for heat and I was cutting the wool in the same room where the wood stove is, also. So Thanks again.

Sally
6/22/2021 05:01:05 pm

Hmm bloody nose is not good, if you are an adult! Bloody Nose and STROKE often go together. I had some slight bloody nose events, chocked it up to dry conditions.... Well I had a STROKE about 6 months after the occasional bloody nose.

I do not have high Blood Pressure, I am active and just a normal person.

So talk to your doctor and maybe get a second opinion, my GP said not to worry about the bloody nose, yet I did have a stroke.




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